"Welcome to Africa" Andrea said as we stepped out of the train station in downtown Napoli. That's exactly what Naples feels like at the first sight of the entrance to the city. Stepping over bags of trash and garbage piles laying on the sidewalk in order to quickly escape death by car or vespa, it feels like maybe we should have stuck to more major cities in Italy. Once inside the safety of Andrea's car, finally being able to take a breath and relax, we are told that all of Napoli is not like this. We later learned that this statement was only partly true-that there is not garbage everywhere laying around, but if you go anywhere near the road whether in a car or by foot, you are putting your life seriously at risk. Andrea, Dave's friend who once stayed with his family in the US, tells us it's best to just understand that they are not trying to kill you, to have trust, and to close your eyes.
Since then, Andrea and his girlfriend, Maybel, have been the most amazing hosts and have shown us all the amazing parts of Napoli. Our first evening here we were taken to two breath-taking panoramic views of the city and then brought to a traditional pizzeria. We each orderered about 4£ worth of pizza, which turns out to be what we in New Jersey would call a large pie. The pizza was probably the best I've ever had, but also very different from what we have in the US. Here in Naples it has a very thin crust and is cooked at very high temperatures, leaving the crust a little burnt and the center mushy. It was quite difficult to eat the pizza using a fork and knife, which is probably why I was the only one who couldn't finish the whole thing. Dinner was topped off by some lemoncello that Dave later learned is meant to be sipped, not taken as a shot.
Today, we woke up and immediately got to work on trying to make espresso in the (amazing) bed and breakfast we're staying in. The house cleaner who doesn't speak English showed me how to make it using a teapot-like contraption on the stove. It was perfect. After that, we went to Pompeii with Andrea and Maybel. It was mind-blowing seeing how this whole civilization was destroyed, preserved by volcanic ash, and then later discovered and excavated. We spent about 2.5 hours there but it easily could have taken us all day. I can't imagine how long it took to dig up.
After that we went and saw Napoli sutteranea, the Naples underground. We learned that Naples is a city that was built vertically, one civilization on top of the other. We went through a series of caves and underground tunnels led by candlelight. It seemed a little much like the Cask of Amontillado and was really creepy at some points. It was really interesting to find out that all of these canals and walk ways used to be used as aqueducts and were later used as a refuge for people during WWII.
After some much needed rest, Andrea again came to retrieve us and brought us to dinner. I think I said 'This place is insane' about a hundred times because it really was unreal. The restaurant, Oste Pazzo, is next to the Castel de'll Ovo, the castle of the egg. To get there, you have to walk on this stone pier, past people making glowing flying lanterns and selling jewelry. It was the most beautiful sight, followed by the most beautiful dinner: mussels (cozze) in a white wine and pepper sauce, and pasta sorrentino. To top off the night, we got an awesome fireworks display, which was honestly, the best one I've ever seen.
Tomorrow is Amalfi and Positano. This trip just keeps getting better.
A domani, buena notte.
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